The Significance of the Signet Ring

Jimmy Savile and members of the rapping and R&B community may have given male jewellery a bad reputation but the signet ring has not lost sight of its elitist origins and sense of sovereignty. Signet comes from the word ‘sign’ meaning a signet ring serves as a sign or symbol of the distinguished individual who wears it. Engraved with the family crest, it is traditionally a signifier of wealth, military distinction, dignity and importance.

Originally reserved for royalty, religious officials and noblemen, the rings were lavishly decorated with precious metals, rich enamels and gems of every colour and facet. Used to seal official documentation, each ring is unique to the wearer.

Today, signet rings still can serve as an indication  of showing  power or authority. For instance, certain countries give special signet rings to members of their monarchies or those in power; Prince Charles is often pictured with a large gold ring on his little finger. Another example is the Roman Catholic tradition of granting signet rings to those in positions of authority, with the Pope’s “Fisherman’s ring’ being the most known world-wide.

 Members of secret societies such as the Masons wear a signet ring as a means of social identity, wearing it the wrong way round so that no outsider may see the symbol. Although much more popular in America, certain universities, clubs and organisations design their own rings for the same purpose. Nowadays it seems the signet ring can be owned by almost anyone. But whether you have the poise and panache to pull one off is another question.

The age-old debate of what finger on which to wear the revered signet ring on continues and there is simply no right or wrong answer: it is purely personal choice. Your motto might be “Do as the Royal family does” and a signet ring may look elegant on the little finger but can quite literally pack more of a punch on the forefinger and middle finger.

The theft of a signet ring no longer carries the death penalty but the wearing of one undoubtedly still carries a certain élan. Although no longer a necessary accessory in every day affairs, the signet ring is not at risk of falling out of fashion. Karen Brown, manager of signet ring specialist Rebus ,suggests the current popularity is down to genealogy being in vogue, “It’s reflected in the popularity of programmes such as ‘Who Do You Think You Are?’ This search into ancestry very often leads to heraldry and an interest in coats of arms and crests.”

So, with the right crest or symbol a signet ring can still provide a visual certification of the wearer’s wealth, provided it is combined with a Saville Row suit and George Clevery shoes.  Brown says a signet ring shows “a man with confidence who is sure of his place in the world past present and future.” More fashion statement than practicality, the signet ring is now purely decorative, which is not necessarily a bad thing when you consider placing the face of your brand new signet ring into hot wax drippings... only to spend another hour or more trying to clean it.